Osaka

How i have been missing a proper routing system in the streets!

As i had to stay in bed, i didnt see so much of Kansai main city Osaka. People seem to be really nice once again, although it seems rather common to talk to oneself (No, there was no headset, i looked). Futhermore people line up on the right side of esacalators, but tend to walk on the left in the streets nonetheless (so it actually can get even more complicated).

I visited the history museum, probably the most pointless museum i've entered in Japan so far, totally superficial explenations additionally, after multimedia experiences at places like AXA Space Center and Kagoshima Meiji restoration museum, this one gave an example of how to do it wrong. I escaped to nearby Osaka-Jo, impressive already from distance, but snow finally drove me back to the hostel to not worsen my weak condition, so all i had left was the day of departure.

I went to the seaside Cosmoplaza, where there are some cool architectural landscapes, and a made a brief stop at Amerika mura (village) where everything is supposed to be the american way, in fact it reminded me more of Camden Market in London, regarding stores and people. In the meanwhile i made it to Nara, so one more temple tour for me (this time merely looking at), got a really cool place to stay, atmospheric and popular with foreign travellers, meaning i once again have the bathtup all for my own...

Osaka Fotos

Icy wind...

It turned out, i had made the online reservation at the wrong hotel at the wrond prefecture (Fukushima in Tohoku) so rather than showing me the way, the tourist information made a new reservation for me (Business Hotel Senba).
Tokushina City is one more of a standard middle size Japanese town, and hasn't really much to offer (who said Shikoku was remote anyway....).

Nearby Naruto has its whirlpool in the sea between Shikoku and Awa-Iji. The time was rather good, as around full moon the phenomenon has its strongest appearence. Nonetheless there was no drain visible, only water turning around in the circle, which was impressive anyway. The boat went straight into it, so it was turned around by the water, then we went back again.

Despite 15° in Tokyo and even in Vienna, there was an icy wind continuing to blow for three days which finally brought me down, so i am now lying in bed of totally new J-Hoppers Osaka, rather than visitin castle, history museum and aqaurium...
Let's see how my condition will be tomorrow...

Naruto Fotos

Spirits

From Matsuyama i went on the 100km something to Saijo. Not only didn't i get a temple stay (probably for henros only), i had to call 5 different hotels until i got a room, they where either "full" or "on holiday" as i was told on the phone. Aoki Hotel right next to the station gave me a room finally. More temples in Saijo, but i only made it to two of them, as i found out about a walkway up to temple number 60, the most remote one around Saijo, promissing escape from the heavy artery traffic.

That promise was kept and so i made my path along the chine of Shikoku mountains. You sure know the shape of these from samurai films or similar, it's totally steep at the foot, getting flat once you made that. For me, i was totally exhausted after the first path, moreover i somehow underestimated the distance, so it took me three hours to make it. 900m high there was still much snow, and it was freezing, so no rest for me at the temple, better this way anyway, as i arrived back in the urban sprawl around sunset. So no more temples on that day for me. But Houju-Ji (No. 60) definitely was woth it.

Next day brought enlightment of some different sort, i visited Asahi brewery. Everything was made up for presentation including an hourly shuttlebus to and from the factory. I got my single person guided toor, from the second floor you look down through windows to the ground level where all the silos, boilers, quality check laboratorys and botteling lines are. The guide explaining in english (read from a sheet), we chatted half english half japanese. This way i learned the stuff i drink taking it for beer so far, actually is happoushuu, with it's share of malt reduced, it slips through taxation levels, making the stuff cheaper (still around 190Y a can). Unfortunately no fotos allowed on the tour.

Next day was Zentsuu-ji (Station Hotel, shabby and rather far from the station). I visited temples 72 (Mandara-Ji) to 75 (Zentsuu-Ji), the whole walk was somewhat more relaxed than the day before, only around 5km one way. The latter temple was the place of the boyhood home of Kobo-Daishi, the founder of the pilgrimage.

Next will be Tokushima, my hub over to Osaka, not many plans for there, Naruto has a giant whirlpool.

Saijo & Zentsuu-Ji Fotos

Matsuyama

I landed on Shikoku at the Port of Matsuyama. As i was totally powered out by moving on day by day, i stayed there for three nights to get some slight rest and organised again. I finally decided to skip Hiroshima, because i didn't care for the atomic bomb memorial, and I've already seen some Toori in the water, so no need for more. Being a rather busy business town not so different from any other middle sized Japanese city, Matsuyama has an impressive castle on a hilltop just in the towncenter. Structure and interior date back from 1850 something, so it stand a closer look too. (Most of the rebuilt in the 60ies castles i have seen so far didn't).

By the Botchan Ressha, a former steam train now running on electricity i went over to Dogo Onsen, just on the town outskirts and took a splash in the Honkan, where once more the structure of the historic facilities remains up today.

But the main thing on Shikoku is the 88 temples pilgrimage, making a tour all around the island. In fact i thought about doing the whole thing by cycle, but despite being on the same height as places like Tel Aviv or Malaga, this part of Japan is rather cold at that time of the year, so i chose the itinerary I am following now. Nonetheless as I am here, i'd like to get a glance of the path, so i am following parts of it by foot. In Matsuyama, i went from Temple No. 48 (Sairin-Ji) to 51 (Ishite-ji). Most of the time, i had to walk along roads with heavy traffic. But it's really impressing how the atmosphere changes once you enter the temple area. The structures itselves might not be so vast and impressing like those let's say in Kyoto (no queing all along the gardens) but the feeling is all so different.

Most pilgrims equip themselves with a kitschy white shirt, a hat, a walking stick, a bracelet and a ticket from the next travel agency, to carry them by bus from one temple to the next, doing the route in some 10 days. The few serious once, doing actually the whole way by foot, don't need any of these. A white scarf or something similar is all those i met on the road wore.Next day i will take the bus to Saijo, more temples there, and as i didn't make it to the Sapporo brewery on Kyushuu (!) i will visit Asahi's here.

Stayed at: Superhotel Matsuyama
Matsuyama Fotos

Steam

The Shinkansenride lastet only for 40 minutes, then i had to change for the relay zubame (so the line to hakata is definitely not finished yet). And i forgot my book during the unexpected change. This time i didnt have the whole dorm for me alone in the youthhostel i stayed. Having left my luggage i hopped on the next bus up to Naka Dake, once more an active Volcano. No hiking up there, as "for safety reasons" you have to go by your own car along the tollroad or take the ropeway, so the operating companies have the safety of a steady source of income. In fact the steam ascending up from the bottom of the caldera really is awful, put all chemistry experiments together and you get it. Nontheless it was an exciting experience!
As i needed to walk a bit i hooked on a path further down, leading to the next peak, promising once mor 360° view. But as it was rather steep and icy, i decided to stop halfway, as i could see most of the valley and the neigbouring cones, from where i went.
Aso Fotos!

Thanks to a hint from a guy i chatted with over supper, i took the bus over to Beppu rather than the train the today. This took one hour more, but the view of the ever changing landscape was great. We went over a mountain pass, and it snowed heavilly! Glad to have safely arrived i checked for accomodiation and everything else i needed, then started to visit the "Hells" Beppu is famous for, it's a variety of natural hot-spring phenomena, put up for mass tourism, there's a small geyser and various pools of steaming hot spring water, i only really liked the "Pool of blood"-Hell, the water coloured red by the clay ground. As I'am at the very Onsen mekka of Japan, no way avoiding the hot springs, i tried Hyotan-Onsen, offering Rotemburo, Steambath and a Waterfall bath, very relaxing climate there.
Tomorrow, since i have time until the ferry at 4pm, I'll go for one or two more hells, try the mud-bath and hope to visit the infamous sex-museum (not covered in official tourist information;-)...

Beppu-Fotos.

Sandbath, cones and space center

Where there are volcanos, hotsprings never are far, as i waited for the rocket launch day, i went south to Ibusuki, famous for its sandbath on the beach, you lie into the warm sand and are buried up to the neck, it can get really hot, but its just so relaxing. Only the constant sound of digging shovels is somewhat scary, reminded me of a burial ground. Anyway the salty thermal water is everywhere, steam from the beach, steam from the canals along the road and even the bath at the youthostel i stayed at, had it's own onsen.

As bathing is best after a long hard day, not that i needed a pretext, i went further south to the symetric cone of extinct Kaimon-dake. It takes 2 hours along a narrow path winding up around the mountain. The last kilometer contained some climbing and ladders, but i really enjoed the first serious hike, since my passage over Gas-San last september. On the top, 900 meter above the close seas level, i had a stunning 360° view, wow!

Ibusuki Fotos

As today was the assigned day for a rocket launch, i hopped on the jetfoil (a calm ride, despite the rough sea) down to Tanegashima, where rifles were introduced to japan, to watch the launch. Unfortunately it was cancelled, so i had to content myself with a visit of the spacecenter, together with the launch facilities situated in front of a great beach scenery.
Tanegashima Fotos


I will stay in Tanegshima business in tonight, and would like to even longer, as the island is very nice, but as it's definitely time to get farther up north, it'll be the jetfoil once more, and i wont be able to avoid the shinkansen on my way to Aso-san, despite my intention to use no more rapid transport once in Okinawa...

Under the volcano...

I left the ferry somewhat weak in the knees. As Kagoshima welcomed me with bright weather, and unuasual high temperatueres, i went straight over to Sakura-Jima, on the other side of Satsuma bay.


Once having been an island, sakurajima now is a peninsula, as major eruptions connected it with the main island. Smoke is raising from the Crater top just all day long, bringing ash-rain from time to time. In fact Sakura-jima is a construction sight on its own. There are artifical hills meant to protect the port form downpouring lava, and they built giant drains to draw possible lava flows into the southern part of the bay. Around the mountain top, which is off limits vor all visitors there is one construction sight next to the other. You don't see much of that, as it's rather distant. The view is great anyway.

Kagoshima itself has some mediterranean flair, people are very stylish again, but not so uniformed like in Tokyo. And having left Okinawa, thinking, my Japanese became good enough, i had a very hard time getting the Satsuman dialect at all. It's very differentfrom anything I've heard in Japan so far, the sound of it is very light, and there seem to be many As and Es.

Kagoshima is more over full of history, as it's omnipresent hero Saigo Takamori coinitiated the Meiji Restoration, leading the opposition to it afterwards. Moreover, Kagoshima has been the landing site for Francisco Xavier, the first Catholic missionary entering Japan. So i just needed to go to one of the few catholic churches in japan and was warmly welcomend by the people there, hearing i come from catholicistic Austria ;-)
I stayed at the nice but somewhat old Busines Hotel Suzuya, the newer and cheaper option would have been one of the hotels just right when leaving the station.

Kagoshima Fotos.

Leaving the Ryu-Kyu realm

I only spent one full day in Naha, which is a nice middle size town, if it wasn't for the circulation, which is horrible. But strolling along the backroads is always a fun thing in Japan. I did some sightseing, like Tsuruba Pottery district, Shuri-Castle and the Budokan. I hoped to go to the wartime Naval headquater too, but an incredibly lousy busservice including uninformed busdrivers (certainly unique in all Japan) prevented me from that.
Okinawa main island also serves as the base for US-army troops, one full day spent in the city, i saw nothing of any GIs, the bases all being up north. Of course that didn't keep locals from taking me for an American, which got me several frosty non-welcomes in shops and restaurants. But certainly no way for a Japanese (even though Ryu-Kyuan) to resist japanese politeness, so until leaving the atmosphere had got friendly all the time.

What I actually witnessed of US-army presence in Naha, were several overflights of fight jets directly over the city and at low height, making even more noise than all the cars on a major road together. What i got out of an embarressed shopkeeper, is that those flights seem to be rahter regular. The following day has one more long ferry ride (25h), and one more early morning leave, arrgh! The next morning will be Kagoshima, on the volcano island Kyushuu.

Naha Fotos

Cutting through the waves up north...

Once again a ferry ride and once more strong waves conveyed by wind from the north. I hoped to get some sleep during the journey, so i layed down at once after boarding at 6. Although luying flat on the matrass, i completly lost balance, only this time this was no alcohol induced waggeling, but rather the some 100m long vessel itself, lifted by the rough sea, giving me moments of levitation, then hitting the water surface again, So i opted for a rattan armchair in a windowed corridor (thanks for the hint dad), to spend my wake there. Going by ferry is not so popular anymore, as regular flights link even the remotest Okinawan islands with the rest of Japan and its not much more expensive taking the plane if you book early. Therefore one line going to the southern islands stopped passenger transport at all.

The ships of Arimura Line are part Cargo part passenger ferries (very common on all islands) and there is only one ferry a week back to Naha. There are several classes, the first, the regular one, with cabins for 6 people and a 2nd class-type with bunk beds equipped dorms, no sign of tatami dorms i read about on the internet. Although going by ferry might not be the most convenient way of travelling anymore, as it takes 14h from Ishigaki to Naha (around 450km) it's a good way to experience the distance between the islands and let you feel that you're actually in the middle of the sea, a fact the japanese seem to try to make you forget.

Despite an island country there is not much sense for the sea here (except fishing). In Honshu you'll never see anything of the sea, if you not really go for it and Tokyo is even worse in that regard (artificial Odaiba doesn't count!). On the other hand this isn't really surprising regarding the countries self chosen isolation, where it was forbidden to leave the country for several hundreds of years, neither were tall ships allowed to be build. So even today, the ocean seems to rather mark a definite border than something accessible.

Welcome to the jangeru!

To Iriomote it takes 40min by speedboat, enough for me to be ready to puke, but just right for a copassenger who slept during the passage, dispite all the shaking and horrible noise on the open deck (we have a winner....!).
In Iriomote it's all Yamaneko (Wildcat), tours, shops, dorms, even a marathon is named after them! As there are only some hundred of these critters, which naturally avoid human civilization and moreover are only active during nighttime, you never see the real ones, but tons of signs instead, warning you to not roll them over on the street (otherwise being severely punished...;-O

Iriomite is covered with jungle forest, human settlements nestled along the westside coast. I went up Urauchigawa, a scenic river bordered by mangroves. From the landing site there is a path crossing the whole island. Most visitors including me stick to the nearby waterfalls, which can be reached within 45mins. But that's quite fine to get a glance how a jungle looks like. There were quite a few cool things to see.

Not only did i forget my umbrella in the bus (i never have one longer than a week), but the pension i had made the reservation at, told me they wouldn't pick me up when i called them to, because they were on vacation ("...but this is Ryuu-Kyu!"). As my mobile didnt work in the jungle the boat company let me use their phone. Of course not much choice this way, so i ended up in rundwon Pension Taira, without meals but moldy walls instead. Actually this seems to be nothing uncommon for Uehara, the village i stayed, as all Hotels here are totally run down. Only the price isnt. A real backdrop considering the beauty of this island.

Having had enough of no warm water, no mirrror in the bathroom, and no sink (therefore no shaving, how did this place make it into LP recommondations after all?) after one night i had the luck, the clerk at deserted Uehara port getting me a room at Pain-Kan. After all the troubles with accomodiation i enjoyed a decent room near the beaches (swimming, once more at great sites), eating wild boar carpaccio at the near izakaya and drinking yamamori-sake together with the people from pain-kan! So i got glance of life on that island too.
Today after a short morning dive, i took the bus to south side Ohara port, as Uehara was still closed for northern winds conveying high tides, and watched the jungle landscape through the windows. One more speedboat-ride back to Ishigaki, taught me about northern winds strengh, as the vessel jumped several times, after hitting the waves. Tomorrow i continue back to Naha by early morning ferry.
One funny thing i heard about ishigaki: Visitors from nearby Taiwan like to buy apples as souvenir gifts, as they are thought to be so cheap (1 apple is 150-200Y).

Best of falling asleep on public transport

As promised, an update on the ranking, and a new number one rank at once!
1) Yaeyaman senior dozing off on the outer deck of the noisy shaking splashy speedboat to Ohara (see below).
2) Man dozing off while unfolding a peace of paper.
3) Woman sleeping while on an escalator.
4) Girl satnding sleeps while holding herself up on a grab handle.
5) Girl fallen asleep while typing a message.

Far from Tokyo...

Entering the half cargo half passenger ferry in the dark, i had the chance to watch the dawn (sun didnt really break through) on open sea. Arrived at around ten o'clock in Ishigaki-City, 2200km away from Tokyo and already close to Taiwan. I left my luggage at the somewhat shabby but internet-equipped Rakutenya, went straight on to Taketomi-Jima, a small island just close to Ishigaki, where a traditional village has been preserved and is a major tourist destination now. Once more unpredictable rain didnt keep me off the beaches, which were deserted until i arrived. Met a bunch of friendly people today.

I think I understand now, what irritated me first, as people rather say "Nippon" than "Nihon", the first being considered carrying a rather nationalistic undertone and which i didnt hear so far except from right-wing-car-mounted speakers. I first thought it to be such a nationalist turn, but obviously it is more a way how people are expressing their cultural distance from Japanese main islands. Like during a conversation over some delicious grilled fish today: "You know, this is Japan. But this is Ryuu-Kyu... It was Ryuu-Kyu."

Ishigaki-Fotos

Finally I updated my maps:

Größere Kartenansicht

Miyaku. part 2

Yesterday i went to Irabu, just short from Miyaku main island, rented a bike and went around the island and its neighbour island connected by many bridges. More great beaches there, and a pilot training site, whith starts every 10 minutes until noon. I finally jumped into the water at Nakanoshima-beach, the most beautiful, being sheltered by overhanging cliffs. Unfortunaltelly the occasional rainshowers turned into continuing rain accompanied by strong wind, which made me return after being soaked within 10 minutes.

Today it finally cleared up, making the island even more beautiful, once more snorkeling from a deserted beach. Great. Tomorrow i will go on to Ishigaki, departing at 5 in the morning...