Leaving the Ryu-Kyu realm

I only spent one full day in Naha, which is a nice middle size town, if it wasn't for the circulation, which is horrible. But strolling along the backroads is always a fun thing in Japan. I did some sightseing, like Tsuruba Pottery district, Shuri-Castle and the Budokan. I hoped to go to the wartime Naval headquater too, but an incredibly lousy busservice including uninformed busdrivers (certainly unique in all Japan) prevented me from that.
Okinawa main island also serves as the base for US-army troops, one full day spent in the city, i saw nothing of any GIs, the bases all being up north. Of course that didn't keep locals from taking me for an American, which got me several frosty non-welcomes in shops and restaurants. But certainly no way for a Japanese (even though Ryu-Kyuan) to resist japanese politeness, so until leaving the atmosphere had got friendly all the time.

What I actually witnessed of US-army presence in Naha, were several overflights of fight jets directly over the city and at low height, making even more noise than all the cars on a major road together. What i got out of an embarressed shopkeeper, is that those flights seem to be rahter regular. The following day has one more long ferry ride (25h), and one more early morning leave, arrgh! The next morning will be Kagoshima, on the volcano island Kyushuu.

Naha Fotos

Cutting through the waves up north...

Once again a ferry ride and once more strong waves conveyed by wind from the north. I hoped to get some sleep during the journey, so i layed down at once after boarding at 6. Although luying flat on the matrass, i completly lost balance, only this time this was no alcohol induced waggeling, but rather the some 100m long vessel itself, lifted by the rough sea, giving me moments of levitation, then hitting the water surface again, So i opted for a rattan armchair in a windowed corridor (thanks for the hint dad), to spend my wake there. Going by ferry is not so popular anymore, as regular flights link even the remotest Okinawan islands with the rest of Japan and its not much more expensive taking the plane if you book early. Therefore one line going to the southern islands stopped passenger transport at all.

The ships of Arimura Line are part Cargo part passenger ferries (very common on all islands) and there is only one ferry a week back to Naha. There are several classes, the first, the regular one, with cabins for 6 people and a 2nd class-type with bunk beds equipped dorms, no sign of tatami dorms i read about on the internet. Although going by ferry might not be the most convenient way of travelling anymore, as it takes 14h from Ishigaki to Naha (around 450km) it's a good way to experience the distance between the islands and let you feel that you're actually in the middle of the sea, a fact the japanese seem to try to make you forget.

Despite an island country there is not much sense for the sea here (except fishing). In Honshu you'll never see anything of the sea, if you not really go for it and Tokyo is even worse in that regard (artificial Odaiba doesn't count!). On the other hand this isn't really surprising regarding the countries self chosen isolation, where it was forbidden to leave the country for several hundreds of years, neither were tall ships allowed to be build. So even today, the ocean seems to rather mark a definite border than something accessible.

Welcome to the jangeru!

To Iriomote it takes 40min by speedboat, enough for me to be ready to puke, but just right for a copassenger who slept during the passage, dispite all the shaking and horrible noise on the open deck (we have a winner....!).
In Iriomote it's all Yamaneko (Wildcat), tours, shops, dorms, even a marathon is named after them! As there are only some hundred of these critters, which naturally avoid human civilization and moreover are only active during nighttime, you never see the real ones, but tons of signs instead, warning you to not roll them over on the street (otherwise being severely punished...;-O

Iriomite is covered with jungle forest, human settlements nestled along the westside coast. I went up Urauchigawa, a scenic river bordered by mangroves. From the landing site there is a path crossing the whole island. Most visitors including me stick to the nearby waterfalls, which can be reached within 45mins. But that's quite fine to get a glance how a jungle looks like. There were quite a few cool things to see.

Not only did i forget my umbrella in the bus (i never have one longer than a week), but the pension i had made the reservation at, told me they wouldn't pick me up when i called them to, because they were on vacation ("...but this is Ryuu-Kyu!"). As my mobile didnt work in the jungle the boat company let me use their phone. Of course not much choice this way, so i ended up in rundwon Pension Taira, without meals but moldy walls instead. Actually this seems to be nothing uncommon for Uehara, the village i stayed, as all Hotels here are totally run down. Only the price isnt. A real backdrop considering the beauty of this island.

Having had enough of no warm water, no mirrror in the bathroom, and no sink (therefore no shaving, how did this place make it into LP recommondations after all?) after one night i had the luck, the clerk at deserted Uehara port getting me a room at Pain-Kan. After all the troubles with accomodiation i enjoyed a decent room near the beaches (swimming, once more at great sites), eating wild boar carpaccio at the near izakaya and drinking yamamori-sake together with the people from pain-kan! So i got glance of life on that island too.
Today after a short morning dive, i took the bus to south side Ohara port, as Uehara was still closed for northern winds conveying high tides, and watched the jungle landscape through the windows. One more speedboat-ride back to Ishigaki, taught me about northern winds strengh, as the vessel jumped several times, after hitting the waves. Tomorrow i continue back to Naha by early morning ferry.
One funny thing i heard about ishigaki: Visitors from nearby Taiwan like to buy apples as souvenir gifts, as they are thought to be so cheap (1 apple is 150-200Y).

Far from Tokyo...

Entering the half cargo half passenger ferry in the dark, i had the chance to watch the dawn (sun didnt really break through) on open sea. Arrived at around ten o'clock in Ishigaki-City, 2200km away from Tokyo and already close to Taiwan. I left my luggage at the somewhat shabby but internet-equipped Rakutenya, went straight on to Taketomi-Jima, a small island just close to Ishigaki, where a traditional village has been preserved and is a major tourist destination now. Once more unpredictable rain didnt keep me off the beaches, which were deserted until i arrived. Met a bunch of friendly people today.

I think I understand now, what irritated me first, as people rather say "Nippon" than "Nihon", the first being considered carrying a rather nationalistic undertone and which i didnt hear so far except from right-wing-car-mounted speakers. I first thought it to be such a nationalist turn, but obviously it is more a way how people are expressing their cultural distance from Japanese main islands. Like during a conversation over some delicious grilled fish today: "You know, this is Japan. But this is Ryuu-Kyu... It was Ryuu-Kyu."

Ishigaki-Fotos

Finally I updated my maps:

Größere Kartenansicht

Miyaku. part 2

Yesterday i went to Irabu, just short from Miyaku main island, rented a bike and went around the island and its neighbour island connected by many bridges. More great beaches there, and a pilot training site, whith starts every 10 minutes until noon. I finally jumped into the water at Nakanoshima-beach, the most beautiful, being sheltered by overhanging cliffs. Unfortunaltelly the occasional rainshowers turned into continuing rain accompanied by strong wind, which made me return after being soaked within 10 minutes.

Today it finally cleared up, making the island even more beautiful, once more snorkeling from a deserted beach. Great. Tomorrow i will go on to Ishigaki, departing at 5 in the morning...

Miyako-Jima

I got in the plane at Haneda airport, which is built on reclaimed land and reached via Tokyo Monorail. After having checked in my luggage (it's enough to be there 20min in advance) it took 2,5 hours to reach Naha airport on Okinawa, where i was welcomed by rather high temperatures and humidity.

I didnt see much of Naha, because i had to take the ferry the same day, and thanks to a lousy busservice (No destinations on bus-timetables, 20min delay etc) i had to skip Shuri-Castle. Okinawa is a car society as Japanese use to say, and the only american thing for me to experience, as i did only see one westerner during the whole day, so the Americans seem to rather stay on their bases. Ok, there are lots of Steak-Houses though, of course i eat champloo instead , the obviously name-giving dish for the Samurai Champloo anime (both great!!!). From the rather run down Shinko (New Port) in Naha, it takes 8h by ferry to get to Miyako. I slept well and didnt get sick.

At Miyako port i was picked up by the proprietor of the Kuromonchou-Minshuku, who is a totally nice guy, later that day, he showed me around all over Miyako main island from north to south with his car, told me a lot, and in the evening we had dinner together with one of his friends, exchanged sake and home made Schnaps from Austria. Today we did some snorkeling on the eastern coast, the water being warm, but probably not what you need for that kind of activity, so we had enough after 30min. But i am relaxed knowing now there'll be no problem swimming in 20degree warm water (just as air temperature). Only backlash: it is really cloudy and rainy all the time, and you're not able to foretell the next shower (which normally is over again after half an hour something again).
Watch the Fotos!