Dewa Sanzan I - Haguro San

The next day i got up early and went to the Tsuruoka tourist office, where i got all the information I needed. The nice clerk even made the reservation for me at Hachigome Shukubo (Temple Lodge at "Eight Station" on the way up to Gas-san (Information, tel. 090-3022-1191)). So this was my plan: I would go from Tsuruoka to Haguro-Town by bus then hike up Haguro. As business would close down on the same day around Gas-san, i were lucky to take the last bus to Hachigome, where i could stay for the night and the next day proceed up to Gas-san and farther on to Yudono-san, from there continuing to Yamagata-city. So i would have to carry all my lugage with me.

After a short ride I got to Haguro-town, where you just turn left, to get on the path up to the peak. Haguro-San is the lowest of three sacred mountains. Pilgrimage there was established by Prince Hashiko in 594 AD, who practiced ascetism there. The three peaks have ever since been related with the idea of unity between shintoism and buddhism (shinto-deities are understood as incarnations of buddha), which was in fact the offical doctrine during Edo-Period. So just after the start of the path, i perished in a dense forest of tall cedar trees. The trail itself consist mainly of some 2000 stonesteps. Unfortunately these steps are not made for contemporary europeans feet, so i had to decide either going up there on my toes, or otherwise do it telemach-style. I decided for the latter.
On the way up, you pass by many shrines and also a 1000 year old Pagoda (that you normaly only find next to buddhist temples), as well as a 1400 year old cedar. After about 2/3ds of the way up there is a traditional teahouse where i stopped to have some matcha (powderised green tea) and enjoyed the plains stretching out at the feet of Haguro-San. You also get your certificate of achievement there, proving that you did all the way up on your own.

After the teahouse it's only a short hike, then the path ends just next to Sanjin-Gossiden, a tall red shrine, housing all three gods of the mountains. It is the main building in a vast complex of shrines, lodges, a museum, including some souvenir-shops that also serve soba (noodle soup).
I got the before mentioned bus that went up to Gas-san eight Station this season, meaning also that i definitely had to go on to Yamagata, as there was no returning to Tsuruoka by public transport within this year. The bus winded up its way up to Hachigome, where i went directly to the shukubo, which was a basic mountain hut just next to a shrine. I seemed - once again - to be the last guest this season as i shared the large loft just under the roof with no one (which was a creepy experience, when cold autumn wind howls outside). As there was some time left of the day, i was strolling a little bit around, impressed by the view, following wooden pathways, to whichs sides laid marsh-ponds, and i was just glad having weather on my side.

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